Irrespective of ones personal knowledge of coffee, there are two basic sensations you can have whilst tasting coffee:

GOOD (I like it) HORRIBLE (I don’t like it)

This means that our opinion on the coffee we’re drinking will be strongly influenced by our organic sensations. These up to a certain extent can be very subjective.

This is especially so if we’re analysing a blend.

The Italian ingeniousness has probably invented what can be described as the best cistern available to extract all the different tastes, aromas, good and bad qualities present in the coffee bean and enhancing them to their fullest.

Here we are talking about espresso.

The magic behind espresso is in the cream or froth that forms the head of the espresso.

This froth contains hundreds of fatty aromatic substances, which tend to be very volatile.

The froth therefore characterises completely, both in the positive and negative aspects, all the sensations we will perceive whilst cup tasting.

Just like a bottle of wine is turned down if the wine tastes of cork, so must a cup of Italian Espresso be turned down if the froth is absent or insufficient.

The absence of froth is mainly due to two reasons:

If an old or poor coffee is used

If certain technical parameters in the preparation of the espresso are not observed for example those regarding machine, grinder, dosage, cleaning etc.

Regardless of the cause though, we have to stress that if a cup of Italian espresso does not contain froth, it must be turned down because it is made incorrectly.

Regarding the technical parameters, it is important to remember the following:

The temperature of the water used by the espresso machine must be between 88°-92°C.

The pressure of the pump must be of 9Bar.

The dosage of powdered coffee used for a cup must be of about 7 grams.

The size of the grind must constantly be checked and regulated.

This is because coffee is highly hygroscopic and any climatically change even in the space of a few hours is bound to affect the proper extraction of the espresso.

And it is therefore not advisable to leave ground coffee in the distributor for long periods of time (as in some bars where it is left in the evening for the following morning). Also because this results in a premature ageing of the coffee caused by oxidation.

This results in the fatty aromatic substances present in the froth become impoverished, as they are lost through volatilisation.

An incorrect dosage of the coffee, an incorrect size of the grind or an old coffee will result in the coffee being:

OVER-EXTRACTED – if there is too much coffee powder or is too fine;

UNDER-EXTRACTED – if there is too little powder or the grind is too coarse or the coffee used is too old.

In both of these two cases, the froth will not be able to form correctly. The time of extraction varies from 20 to 30 seconds.

The quantity extracted must be about 25-30 ml.

The flow of coffee from the machine must have the shape of a mouse’s tail.

All the machinery used must be periodically cleaned and adjusted.

The cup should be cone shaped with a relatively narrow mouth. This will allow the froth to remain compact and therefore last longer giving a better perception of the fragrances.

In order to release all the aromas present in the coffee, it must be roasted up to a shade of brown which resembles the colour of a friar’s frock.

This is despite the fact that in certain areas of Italy, coffee is roasted much darker to obtain more body or personality.

How is Italian espresso cup tasted?

Obviously with all 5 of our senses!

Yes, this includes our sense of hearing which is the first to be stimulated.

If we find ourselves close enough to the machine, we will be able to hear the liquid flowing out of it which could be a mere trickle or a gush of liquid.

Jokes aside, we definitely use our nose to perceive the fragrances and to evaluate their presence in the coffee.

We will us our sense of touch to feel the heat of the cup and the coffee inside it.

We use our eyes to check the colour, density and thickness of the froth.

We use our taste to define and evaluate in a more precise manner everything that an Italian espresso can suggest to us on a hedonistic level.

If we examine the colour and thickness of the froth in more details (taking for granted that all the parameters for a proper extraction are correct), we can say that a light coloured froth normally indicates the use of a fine quality coffee in both a blend or a single origin – as this is a characteristic of Arabica coffee or of a very well balanced blend.

In this case the froth is normally not very thick but will be very dense and consistent and will remain present in the coffee for quite some time.

A coffee with these characteristics will offer a better and more accentuated aroma.

There will probably be a lower caffeine content.

If the froth is dark, then the coffee used will usually be of a lower quality – both in a blend or single origin – as this a characteristic of Robsuta coffees or blends which are not well balanced.

The froth will be quite thick but very bubbly consequently not very dense and will disappear quickly.

Coffee with these characteristics will have fewer aromas.

The caffeine content will probably be higher.

Espresso cup tasting is done by tasting both a sugared cup as well as a lightly sugared cup.

Why do we do this?

The forced extraction process of espresso, produces what could be defined a concentrated coffee.

This is compared to the other methods of extraction which are mainly done by infusion.

The darker roast together with the forced extraction process in espresso leads to an amplification of one of the 4 basic tastes – ie bitterness.

The use of sugar therefore not only evens out this taste but it also highlights important defects and at the same time makes minor defects more noticeable.

Furthermore it also acts as a catalyst, giving greater emphasis to the existing aromas.

As well as the more fleeting ones.

I can therefore affirm that due to extraction process the real Italian espresso allows us to make the best evaluation and allows us to comprehend fully what a coffee can offer, inspire, and suggest.

If the blend or single quality used is poor or bad, the Italian espresso will make these characteristics even worse.

On the other hand, if the coffees used are of good quality, their perception in the Italian espresso cup of coffee will be greatly enhanced thus increasing the sensation of pleasure and the resulting temptation or desire to taste some more.